As the sun sets and the night market sets up, the square of Jemae El-Fna comes alive with music, acrobats, snake charmers and dancers, while the rich smells of spices and street foods drift up from the stalls. On the southern edge of the food stalls, a row of vendors sell a hot, spicy galangal drink (khoudenjal), said to be an aphrodisiac, and usually taken with a portion of nutty cake. That night, one of the stallholders appears to say to anyone: "the smile on my face doesn't mean my life is perfect. It means I appreciate what I have and what God has blessed me with".
